These are truly Larry’s favorite kind of cookie. Well, at least top three. I don’t eat them because I don’t like cooked raisins, although I’ve been known to throw caution to the wind in the past and sub in dried blueberries instead. Blueberries have a natural affinity for oats and cinnamon, and I think oatmeal cookies are better with blueberries than with raisins.

My cookies are unfortunately on the flat side again, because I stubbornly refuse to admit that my beloved local butter is likely to blame. I’ve been able to compensate in the past by reducing the amount of butter and increasing the flour, but I hate messing with a recipe the first time I’ve made it. Despite being on the flat side, they’re very buttery smelling and were a big hit when Larry took them to work with him in the Toronto office. For the recipe, see David Lebovtiz’s blog.

• Oatmeal Raisin Cookies (Flour, p. 112)