I’m not much of a meatloaf lover. I’d probably never make it, but Larry likes it. And it’s definitely comfort food – something I grew up with. Normally I use a recipe out of The Best Recipe, which uses a mixture of beef, pork and veal and has a ketchup-based glaze.
I used beef, pork and turkey in this version, which also has mushrooms in it (I think they add a nice flavor) but no glaze. Larry said he likes the other one better. I think this one is fine if I just add the glaze next time.
Neither one of us liked the polenta and greens. The recipe is also in Cooking New American and Fine Cooking’s Side Dish 2007 special issue, but I only mention that so I can note in multiple places to never make it again.
Not-like-Mom’s Meatloaf
Serves 8
1 ounce dried porcini or other mushrooms, soaked in boiling water for at least 30 minutes
1 cup soft fresh bread crumbs
1/2 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided use
1 cup finely chopped onions
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 pound fresh shiitake, porcini or other wild mushrooms, stems removed if using shiitakes; thinly sliced
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pound ground beef round (85 percent lean)
1 pound ground pork
1 pound ground veal or turkey
3 slices pancetta, bacon, or lean salt pork, about 1/8 inch thick
Remove dried mushrooms from soaking liquid. If using shiitakes, remove and discard stems. Chop mushrooms and set aside. (Save soaking liquid for use in soups, stews or pasta sauces.)
In a small bowl, soak bread crumbs in cream while you prepare remaining ingredients.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat. Add onions and saute until softened, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and saute 2 minutes longer, stirring frequently. Remove onions and garlic to large bowl and set aside. Add remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil to pan and increase heat to high. Put in soaked dried mushrooms along with fresh mushrooms and saute, stirring constantly, until mushrooms release their liquid and it evaporates, about 5 minutes. Add mushrooms to onions in bowl.
Stir in eggs, Worcestershire sauce, parsley, thyme, salt and pepper. Mix well, then add ground meats and soaked bread crumbs with any liquid. Knead gently, using your hands, until everything is well blended. Rinse a large loaf pan (10 by 5 by 4 inches) with cold water and pack the meat into it. Invert loaf onto a flat roasting rack on top of a foil-lined baking sheet with (1-inch sides) or a shallow baking dish or gratin pan and remove loaf pan. (Or you can form a loaf on the baking sheet or in the pan.)
Place slices of pancetta, bacon or salt pork on top of the meat and bake 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until internal temperature is 155 degrees. Remove meat loaf from oven and let it rest, loosely covered with foil, for 10 to 20 minutes before slicing.
Per serving: 418 calories, 29g protein, 30g fat ( 12g saturated), 8g carbohydrate, 821mg sodium, 161mg cholesterol, 1g dietary fiber.
From “The Complete Meat Cookbook” by Bruce Aidells and Denis Kelly (Houghton Mifflin, 1998)

• Not-like-Mom’s Meatloaf (The Complete Meat Cookbook)
• Gratin of Polenta with Greens (Fine Cooking #31, March 1999, p. 27)

Wine: Novy 2000 Syrah (Napa Valley, California). Yum! Novy makes great wines. Peppery with concentrated fruit.