One of the best renditions of butterscotch pudding we had recently was from a local food truck called Butterscotch on the Go. Their version is really creamy and not too sweet, with just the right amount of salt. And although I like my desserts uncomplicated and without a lot of extras, I like their topping of whipped cream and smoked almond chocolate (I suspect it’s a crumbled Vosges Barcelona bar).

For making it at home, I turned to pastry genius Karen DeMasco. I kept putting off making this because it sounded like a pain, many steps and a water bath. But really, it was pretty easy and came together quickly. And we loved it. So creamy and flavorful, and it’s got a great texture.

Butterscotch Pudding
Recipe from: The Craft of Baking, Karen DeMasco

Just the right hint of salt balances the sweet and puts an adult twist on this rich childhood favorite.

2 cups heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
3/4 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons creme fraiche
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
6 large egg yolks

Method:
In a medium saucepan, combine the cream, milk, and brown sugar. Heat over medium-low heat, whisking, until the mixture is
warm to the touch and the sugar is dissolved, about 7 minutes. Remove from the heat.

In a small saucepan, combine the granulated sugar and 1/4 cup water, stirring to make sure all of the sugar is damp. Heat over high heat until the sugar becomes a yellow gold caramel, about 15 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat. Carefully whisk about 1/2 cup of the cream mixture into the caramel. Then add the caramel mixture to the remaining cream mixture, and whisk to combine. Whisk in the creme fraiche, salt, and vanilla.

Preheat the oven to 275° F.

Prepare an ice bath in a large bowl. Set the saucepan with the butterscotch mixture into the ice bath. Whisk until the mixture is chilled.

Put the egg yolks in a medium bowl. Add about 1 cup of the butterscotch mixture to the yolks and whisk well to combine. Add the yolk mixture to the remaining butterscotch mixture, and whisk well to combine. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl.

Place eight 4-ounce ramekins or custard cups in a deep baking dish or roa sting pan, spacing them evenly. Divide the mixture among the ramekins. Cover the baking dish with aluminum foil, leaving the front side loose. Carefully place the pan in the oven. Fill the baking dish with warm water to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins, then seal the pan tightly with the foil.

Bake for 30 minutes. Then lift the foil to let the steam out and rotate the pan; tightly reseal the foil. Continue baking until the edges of the puddings are set and the centers are still slightly loose, 20 to 30 minutes more (if the puddings appear to need more time, continue cooking, checking them at 5-minute intervals).

Remove the foil and carefully transfer the baking dish from the oven to a wire rack. Let the puddings cool to room temperature in the water bath. Then remove them from the water and refrigerate them, uncovered, for at least 1 hour before serving.

Once chilled, the pudding can be kept in the refrigerator, loosely covered with plastic wrap, for up to 2 days.

Serves six.

• Butterscotch Pudding (The Craft of Baking, p. 196)