This second take on snickerdoodles is vegan and gluten-free. They’re not something I would normally bake – vegan, yes. But gluten-free seems to involve a lot of rice flour, and I have a rice allergy. But these were for special delivery to our friends Mark and Lisa in Toronto, since Larry was there on business. I decided the best place to start with a reliable recipe would be the newest BabyCakes cookbook, since they’re probably the most well-known vegan and gluten free bakery in the country.

The dough is odd, like wet sand. The cookies themselves don’t taste bad – lots of sugar and cinnamon would make anything taste good. These have a rice flour base, with applesauce and coconut oil for fat and moisture and xanthan gum for a binder. Ironically, Larry said he likes these better than the conventional snickerdoodles I just made. Although I don’t think these could be recognized by any stretch as a traditional snickerdoodle.

To get the recipe, check out Publisher’s Weekly.

• Snickerdoodles (BabyCakes Covers the Classics, p, 56)