While part of me is lamenting the end of summer fruit (cherries! Nectarines! Blueberries!), I find that I have a special fondness for the fall and winter items that start showing up. Grapes and apples (Honeycrisp in particular), beautiful greens, and delicata squash (expecting it this week).

I scored a kabocha squash last weekend, which I like better than a plain pumpkin – but that’s the beauty of this recipe – it can be modified so easily and it still turns out great. We had Acme bread leftover, and I added whatever cheese I had on hand (gruyere and cheddar). I had some smoked cheddar that I thought about adding but didn’t – maybe next time. The recipe is available at Epicurious.

• Pumpkin Stuffed with Everything Good (Around my French Table, p. 326)