Short ribs – every time I make them, I’m sorry. They’re really fatty, and it’s off-putting to me. The only way I’ve ever had any success is to cook the heck out of them, then refrigerate them in the braising liquid so I can pull off some of the fat.

I did that with this recipe – the flavor is better the next day, anyway. And the braising liquid – it’s dark and full of umami. It’s positively lip-smacking. We loved the parsnip puree with these ribs as well – so silky smooth, and the earthiness of the roots pairs so well with the ribs.

For the recipe, check out Flavors of Northwest Iowa.

• Balsamic and Beer-Braised Short Ribs with Parsnip Purée (The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook, p. 179)