There’s beef stroganoff, and then there’s this dish – an updated version of the classic, with rustic spaetzle and a savory marmalade. I was pretty much won over with the peppery spaetzle, but pairing it with a good steak sealed the deal.

While still maintaining its status as hearty, homey fare, swapping out beef sirloin for flatiron steak (relatively inexpensive and unbelievably tender) elevates this to dinner party fare without being overly fussy. If you can’t find black trumpet mushrooms, any other meaty wild mushroom would work fine (I used king trumpets).

• Grilled Steak and Peppered Spaetzle with Black Trumpet Mushrooms and Shallot Marmalade (Fine Cooking #115)